Sunday, June 12, 2011

Horizon of the Aten: Akhenaten and the Amarna Period


I just have to fangirl for a moment. A visit to Egypt has completely reawakened my obsession with Egyptology and renewed my interest in one of the ancient families that has fascinated me the most: Akhenaten, Nefertiti, Tutankhamun, and Ankhesenamun. There are many reasons I'm fond of them, but having been separated from ever knowing them by several thousand years, I can only credit my vast imagination as the reason why I feel "close" to them. The easiest way to explain what made them such an extraordinary and infamous family, is to give you a brief summary of Egyptian history and religion.

The traditional religion of ancient Egypt was comprised of a hierarchy of major and minor gods and goddesses, the most prominently featured of which were Ra/Amun-Ra (the sun and creator deity), Osiris (judge of the dead in the afterlife), Isis (wife of Osiris and goddess of magic, motherhood, and fertility), Horus (falcon-headed god of the sky, pharaohs, war, and protection), Ptah (another creator being), Anubis (jackal-headed god of embalming and caretaker of the dead), and Hathor (cow-goddess of the sky, fertility, love, beauty, and music). The Egyptians loved their gods and goddesses, and had an extensive pantheon.

It's safe to assume that the priests and temples associated with these gods and goddesses became quite wealthy and influential. The ancient Egyptians feared and respected their deities, and there was an incredible amount of power and prestige that came along with being in a position of authority within major religious cults. Akhenaten's father, Amenhotep III, left Egypt financially, politically, and religiously secure and prosperous. In the wake of his father's death, the changes Akhenaten would introduce early on in his reign would scandalize most of Egypt and reap dire consequences.

Many historians have different opinions about the sort of man Akhenaten was: tyrant, dreamer, narcissist, optimist, or simply inept. He may have been several of these things, but I have a soft spot for people who break the mold and dream big, and really that's what he did the best: envision a grand, new future for Egypt. In short, Akhenaten and his famously stunning queen, Nefertiti, banished the old religion and gods of Egypt, and tried to force a new, monotheistic religion on the people. Instead of a hundred gods, there would be one: the Aten, the sun disk whom Akhenaten believed to be the giver of life. All power and authority was stripped from the priests of Thebes (the capital of Akhenaten's father) and their gods were discredited. The Pharaoh and his queen then moved their fragile new religion and followers out into the middle of the desert, to a site called "Akhetaten" (Horizon of the Aten), now referred to as Amarna.

This resulted in an incredible new period of art and culture that was markedly different from the previous traditions. For one, while Akhenaten had a few wives (previously it was common for pharaohs to have a great royal queen, in addition to several minor wives and consorts), he showed great reverence and respect for his first wife, Nefertiti. Whereas the later pharaoh, Ramesses II, would portray his primary queen Nefertari as a much smaller figure, often pictured showing submission to him (see below), Akhenaten would commission beautiful reliefs of Nefertiti, sometimes alone, performing acts and rituals that were previously reserved for the pharaoh himself.


The figure of Nefertari by Ramesses II's colossal leg



Nefertiti shown in the iconic pharaonic pose, smiting a female enemy


The Amarna period ushered in a rare glimpse of intimate royal life, previously never seen before in Egyptian art. We see Akhenaten and Nefertiti together with their young children worshiping and playing together. It's sweet and touching, and so unlike the rigid, unmoving hieroglyphs of earlier dynasties. It's almost as though we, the viewer, walked into a room and caught the royal family in a tender moment, in fluid mid-movement.


Akhenaten wasn't afraid to show he was a family man



Worship of the Aten was a family activity


In addition, what makes the art of this period so unique are the unusual additions to pharaonic portraiture, exaggerated characteristics such as: elongated heads and faces, large fleshy lips, extended forehead, slanted eyes, full womanly hips, protruding chin, and long stretched ears. It's strange that Akhenaten chose to portray himself with so many feminine characteristics, but it's possible he was attempting to illustrate his connection with the Aten, who was also seen as having both masculine and feminine properties.


Akhenaten, portrayed in the Amarna style




I loved visiting the Amarna room in the Egyptian Museum, so much that I had to go back again and stare up into the dreamy, peaceful expression of its king. While strange looking, his statues really are quite beautiful. It seems like such a fragile, delusional time in history. While Akhenaten and Nefertiti were basking in their secluded religious paradise, intrigue and unrest were brewing all around them. The priests, shunned and bitter, were scheming and plotting their return to power, while Egypt's foreign neighbors felt neglected politically, overlooked, and cheated. It was a dream that could not last, and when Akhenaten died in the 17th year of his reign, his new religion fell out of favor and every effort was taken to erase him and his heresy from the history of Egypt. We will perhaps never know what became of Nefertiti, and although there are many interesting theories about whether she too fell out of favor or attempted to rule alone after her husbands death, her mummy and tomb have yet to be found.

Given the chaos and upheaval his father's reforms brought to Egypt, one can imagine how tumultuous and confusing Tutankhamun's childhood and early reign must have been. No doubt he was swept up and influenced by political advisors and priests of the old religion the moment his father's body went cold. His name was immediately changed from Tutankhaten ("Living Image of Aten") to Tutankhamun ("Living Image of Amun"), and he and his half-sister and wife Ankhesenamun (Nefertiti's and Akhenaten's daughter) were likely hastened out of Amarna and returned to Thebes, where they would reinstate the capital and former gods.

And yet, despite the desperate attempt to cover the sins of his father and ease the country's embarrassment, echoes of the Amarna style of art appear in Tutankhamun's depictions of himself and his queen. While the odd, elongated facial characteristics and exaggerated limbs were rejected, the intimate and affectionate nature of the couple's portrayal seems to suggest that Tutankhamun paid heed to the way his father admired his wife and family. The young couple are depicted in quiet, romantic moments: relaxing together, with Ankhesenamun offering Tutankhamun perfume or a lotus flower (a symbol for love and loyalty).









Within the Egyptian Museum, there was room upon room, all full of Tutankhamun's personal belongings; hundreds of beautiful, intact artifacts from his virtually untouched tomb. We saw his collection of chariots, bows and arrows, games, breathtaking golden furniture, wigs, jewelry, and clothing. But perhaps the most poignant of antiquities, aside from the loving depictions of him and his wife, was his huge collection of canes. A product of royal incest (recent DNA tests have shown that his unknown mother was one of Akhenaten’s five sisters), he was likely a slight, sickly king, possibly plagued by scoliosis. He seems to have died unexpectedly, at the age of eighteen, most likely as a result of an infected broken leg and a case of malaria.

After his death, it is believed that Tutankhamun's grieving, frightened queen dispatched a letter to the neighboring Hittite king, begging him for help, "My husband has died and I have no son. They say about you that you have many sons. You might give me one of your sons to become my husband. I would not wish to take one of my subjects as a husband... I am afraid." A Hittite prince was eventually sent, bur died mysteriously on route, and Ankhesenamen was almost certainly pressured to marry Ay, the Grand Vizier who became Tutankhamun's successor.

Ay ruled for a short time, before being replaced by Horemheb, the former Commander-in-Chief of Tutankhamun's army, who embarked on a campaign to eliminate any traces of the despised Amarna period and the heretic Akhenaten. Akhenaten's, Tutankhamun's, and Ay's monuments were demolished or usurped and their names were disappeared from Egypt's kings list. Interestingly enough, although Horemheb ruthlessly had Ay's tomb, sarcophagus, and mummy desecrated, he spared Tutankhamun's from similar vandalism.

It's like a soap opera, isn't it? Full of idealism, romance, drama, intrigue, violence, and tragedy. It's hard not to feel a certain degree of pity for a family who gambled so much in the hope of a glorious future, and lost everything as a result. Especially considering the innocence and vulnerability of Tutankhamun and Ankhesenamen. It's one of the many reasons why their story is so captivating and timeless.

It's interesting to note that after every measure taken to erase him and his family from Egypt's history, King Tutankhamun has become one of the best-known, most popular pharaohs of all time, capturing the imagination of generations. Oh, I do love irony (and poetic justice) ;)

Saturday, June 11, 2011

Land of the Pharaohs


The first part of our epic honeymoon was a trip to Egypt, which we had booked last September. When the revolution hit the streets of Cairo, ending in Mubarak's forced departure, we weren't sure if we would still be able to go. In fact, I was a little terrified at the thought of going when there wasn't a unified police force or central government. We tried everything we could think of to get out of our leg in Cairo, all to no avail. I wryly told KC that, "Egypt and I are destined for each other." Amazingly enough, the United States lifted the travel ban about a month before we were scheduled to leave. So the dream I've had since I was a little girl was bound to be realized, and on May 9th, we left for our honeymoon.

Ever since we got back, everyone has asked me, what was it like? What did we think of Egypt? And the honest answer? It's mind blowing. While I never felt completely comfortable wandering around (the culture is so different, especially when you're a woman), I have to say that being there, after reading about it for so many years, was incredible. Standing at the foot of the pyramids, walking through the haunting, empty necropolis of Saqqara, gazing up into the dreamy expression of Akhenaten in the Amarna room at the Egyptian Museum, and looking into the eyes of Tutankhamun's exquisite, solid gold death mask was indescribable. You study certain historical figures for so long, you start to feel like you actually know them. Getting to finally "meet" them is surreal and awe-inspiring.



Posing by the great Nile River, on the way to our hotel



Our hotel suite



The beautiful grounds



The patio of the main restaurant (there were several eateries on campus)



The main lobby



Our resort was huge-- and empty most of the time



The massive pool, which was the largest in Cairo



From the hotel's roof, we got a nice silhouette view of the pyramids



Breakfast was a combination of soft and hard cheeses, fruit, vegetables, hard-boiled eggs and omelets, yogurt, pastries, beans, potatoes, cold meats, and juices that tasted the way you might imagine a camel smells...



In front of Khufu’s stunning pyramid



The sprawling desert, which eventually becomes the Sahara



Crossing off on item on my bucket list: riding a camel to the pyramids



My camel was a little naughty, constantly trying to scratch himself with one leg and sending me lurching forward



KC haggles with the camel proprietor



Dream come true



Being posed like puppets by the kiddo leading our camels



Stunning view of the nine pyramids



Khafre’s pyramid



Menkaure's pyramid



Entering Menkaure's pyramid



The inside of Menkaure's pyramid







Khufu's re-constructed solar barge



Built from ancient cedar of Lebabnon, it has been described as one of the greatest Ancient Egyptian discoveries





The enigmatic Sphinx







A traditional Egyptian meal: stuffed grape leaves, falafel-esque something, french fries, baba ganoush, beans, pickles, beets, hummus, some type of coleslaw, potatoes, flat bread, and chicken



Ramesses II left homages to himself all over the ancient capital of Memphis...



...including this colossal statue



Albeit kind of a narcissist, he was a pretty impressive pharaoh



Anubis, the Egyptian god of mummification and the dead



Statue of a goddess



Crisp, clear heiroglyphs



The ancient necropolis of Saqqara







Djoser's step pyramid, built by the architect Imhotep and one of the oldest manmade structures on earth







Roughly 7km, the site is home to many of the earliest pyramids (all proto-types for the pyramids at Giza)



Saqqara is so large, that even though Egyptologists work tirelessly to keep excavating, the desert starts to reclaim the uncovered sites









Relaxing by the pool after a day of sightseeing



The Egyptian Museum-- incredible and almost overstimulating



The entire courtyard was full of artifacts





Lotus flowers









Proof of how close the revolution violence came to the museum's doorstep



Saladin's medieval Citadel







Islamic Cairo





The famous, bustling Khan El Khalili bazaar



Our driver, Salah


It was an unforgettable experience and I'm so grateful we had the opportunity to go!